I read that this part of West Sumatra, although Muslim, is not as strict as some other areas of Indonesia. In North Sumatra, women are required to cover every inch of their bodies. But here in Bukittinggi, it’s more relaxed; women are allowed more personal freedom, perhaps due to the influence of the matriarchal society.

 However, they do expect modesty, no knees or arms showing. And since I don’t want to offend, I’m wearing a floor-length skirt, and long-sleeved blouse. ItÕs not my clothing causing all the stares.

  A little girl approaches. "Apa nama anda?" she asks shyly.
  I smile and answer - "Marie"- asking her name in return. She giggles and runs off to hide behind her mother’s dress.

 Some guests are trying not to stare. But a few do not hide cool glares. One man, 50-ish, in a fez, stands a few feet away and frowns directly at me. His hostility makes me feel awkward and I worry that photographing people might be difficult. Remembering I was invited by the bride, I pretend to be at ease and muster up the courage to approach a group of older women. Perhaps allies can be gained.

 "Selamat pagi, Apa kabar?" (Good morning, How are you?), I say to the most senior-looking of the women, hoping I convey the right amount of respect. She studies me for a moment, then laughs. "Bagus" (Good) Then she rattles off a list of questions. The old woman, in her 70s or 80s, thinks I am fluent in Bahasa Indonesian. "Sedikit...sedikit...Bahasa Indonesian," I explain, using my two fingers to show the international sign for "a little." She understands, then begins her questions again slowly. With the aid of a phrase book, I answer her string of personal questions: How old are you? Do you have children? Are you married? Now everyone in the room has turned to listen to us.

 A small commotion in the front foyer causes everyone to scatter; the bride and groom have arrived.

They enter the hall and solemnly walk, side by side, down the center aisle toward the stage. Dressed in glittering gold from head to toe; they look like royalty. They walk stiffly, as if in a formal procession, eyes straight ahead, yet - surprisingly - there’s no music to accompany them. Two pairs of parents join the newlyweds, sitting on each side.

 Once the bride and groom are seated, guests begin to eat and socialize. Children run around, playing tag and creating havoc...not so different from American wedding parties.

 Except the mood of the newlyweds and their parents is somber.This celebration doesn’t seem to be a happy affair for the hosts.

  Later, guests approach offering congratulations to the bride and groom their parents. As they shake hands; there are no smiles. During this time, I take photographs of the couple, their parents and friends. Although everyone gives permission, people pose briefly then hurry off the stage.

 As I circulate around the room to take pictures of guests, I smile, use body language motioning with my camera for permission to shoot photos. Some guests shyly move away, but others seem pleased and nod their approval.

 At 2:00pm, a male musician and female singer arrive. The serious mood changes and the atmosphere becomes lively, as traditional and pop Indonesian song are sung. Guests come forward to sing, karaoke-style.